I stepped on a Halibut in the break zone, going out for a surf. I felt the slippery bump underneath my booties, and sudden movement, and it scared me. I thought maybe it was a ray at first, but immediately after, I knew it was a Halibut. It was in a hole at low tide, about two feet of water, but waiting in the rip tide, running North and out to the sandy beach at Camp Pendleton.
I left my fishing gear in the truck and surfed a bumpy 3-5' NW swell. It was big and junky, like my first girlfriend. BUT, it was fun. I got beat-up pretty bad, and caught a couple of nice ones. A young kid was tearing it up out there and pushed me out of a couple of beautiful mackin' bombs, saw him go sailing...Nice Wave! Frustrated, I thought of Gd, and how I have come to hate the idea of a Gd. What a useless excuse and POS of a Gd. No good. I made up my mind....If Gd exists, I don't care, just like he doesn't care for me, so really there is no Gd, only the Universe.
I looked up at the sky and wondered, then caught a juicy fat one and rode it to the inside. Clamboring over the rocky shoreline. I crawled around on the reef and looked at all of the life. I even found a turban shell! I looked out at the Ocean one last time before I left. Parting ways, I whispered solemnly to myself: "Thank You Universe".
